When I snorkeled to the Blue Hole in the lagoon near the Pacific Treehouse Lodge, I was crippled with foot, calf and shin cramps so bad that I couldn’t even put on my reef shoes because my foot was so contorted. I asked if I could hire a masseuse and learned that the usual person was out on maternity leave.  Selak, who had picked us up at the airport overheard my complaints and  he offered to call someone from his village on the other side of the island. A couple hours later, two women show up! They had unusual materials, a plastic bag with leaves, a small plastic bottle and a small bucket that has been chilled and inside had very woody shreds of plant material that turned the water brown.

Then the woman on the left who is a healer/local medicine woman said a substantial prayer where I only understood two words towards the end “Jesus” and “Amen”. Kosrae had been ruled by a monarchy until the missionaries arrived and now is very strongly Christian. 
Then she began to tear the leaves and add whatever is in the bottle, I think oil and maybe some methanol? (I smelled it but it could have been on the leaves already?)

This was rubbed into my aching lower legs and feet. Her friend has better English, so she asked if also the healer could massage my head. Apparently, my cramps have a head component. So she opened the pink bucket that had had some woody plant that was shredded and seeped and then stored in the fridge. This liquid was worked effectively into my head. I usually avoid head massage, but this woman knew what she was doing. The liquid was dripped and worked into my scalp and neck expertly. Then she asked if we could pour the rest into my hair. This left me dripping brown drops onto the clean white floor of our lodging, but it is water soluble and cleaned up easily, as did the pieces of leaf.

And the results? I must admit that I felt a lot better! The test will be snorkeling the next day. Results: SUCCESS! no more calf, shin and foot cramps in the next three snorkels